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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate well-known high-end names. But, situated near the top among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu situated in a distant corner of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. The accolade has made the owners totally shocked.

“I’m totally shocked,” states the proprietor, alluding to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their small shop earning such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is set to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this culinary honour.